Basic Repair Instructions

1. Clean the area to be repaired by using Water Base Vinyl Cleaner to remove grease, oil and dirt. Clean with Silicone Wash to remove any silicone contaminants and Vinyl Prep to prepare the vinyl for good adhesion. Next you need to make a grain pad to put the grain impression back into the repair. To make your grain pad, mix one ounce of compound with six to eight drops of the catalyst, then pour mixture on a clean, undamaged part of the repair material. This has to be done quickly because the compound will start to set. With a palette knife, spread the compound out a little to make a palm size pad. Allow to dry. When it is dry, it will not be tacky at all. Peel back an edge and slowly pull the pattern off the surface. Use silicone wash to wipe off the area where the pad was to insure no transference of silicone. This process is important because your repair and your dyes will not stick to the material's surface if there is silicone left behind.
2. Heat Gun Repair Method - On damaged areas with no backing you will need to make a sub-patch. Cut the material one inch larger and wider than the hole. Use a palette knife to push the sub-patch under the area to be repaired. Secure the sub-patch with Bond/CA Adhesive. Now spread a layer of Vinyl Repair Compound over the damaged area feathering it about 1/4 inch around the area and get it smooth as possible. Heat the compound until it turns clear. We call this process curing. After the compound is cured, apply more heat until the compound starts to smoke, then apply the graining pad over the smoking compound pressing evenly with your palm to restore the grain back into the repair. Repeat this process until the whole area is repaired satisfactorily. Spray on Barrier Coat to seal the area and hide any minor flaws (you can also grain Barrier Coat).
3. Vinyl Mesh - Final Weld Method - For large tears, deep cracks, restaurant work and for stronger repairs use final weld after sub patching instead of the vinyl repair compound. After the initial compound is applied cut a piece of vinyl mesh about one inch larger and wider than the damaged area. Now apply the mesh over the compound and apply a coat of vinyl compound over the mesh. Now apply heat to cure the compound and to sandwich in the vinyl mesh. Using the vinyl repair compound for the last layer, grain the area as described in step two.
4. Cold repair method for small areas - Apply Superior Power Gel or Flex/Bond with a palette knife as smooth as possible. Spray glue accelerator to rush drying time. Sand until smooth, then apply Water Base Spray Grain for texture.
5. Ultra Torch & Mini Iron - These two items are used for small repairs, hard to reach areas, and in place of a heat gun. After applying compound, place a Teflon mat over the repaired area and cure by moving the iron back and forth until compound is cured. For graining, place an extra thin graining pad on top of the repaired area. Then place the Teflon mat over the pad and iron until the desired grain is achieved. NOTE: Make sure you always use chill bar to extract the heat from your repair before taking off your Teflon mat.
6. Repairing thin vinyls that too much heat can damage - Use Final Weld with your iron on low setting. After curing sand with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper to feather in edges. Use your Water Base Spray Grain to achieve desired texture.

Superior Restoration Products unique water base air dry leather repair products have revolutionized our industry. We also have a superior Leather Heat Compound for certain repair methods. Now you can earn big profits by looking for that leather work you previously avoided.

1. Prepping the leather:
   Spray the entire seat area with Superior Vinyl and Leather Cleaner or Z7 Cleaner. Scrub briskly with a stiff nylon bristle brush. Wipe clean with paper towels. Repeat on deeply soiled seat as the first application removes only surface dirt and the second cleans the dirt from the leather grain and pores. Follow with a generous application of Silicone Wash to remove any remaining contaminants.
   For Cracked areas: On leather what often appears to be cracked leather is simply a stressed finish. Wet sand cracked finishes with Sand Away and 220 grit sand paper while taking the finish down to bare leather. On extremely heavy damage 100 grit may be necessary. Wipe clean with Sand Away using a paper towel. Let exposed area dry. On very dry and damaged areas, after using Sand Away, rub in with a clean lint free rag Lexol Leather Conditioner. Let the Lexol absorb into the leather and wipe away and excess. This process with leave the leather with a softer finish.
2. Repairing light to moderate surface damage:
   Leather Adhesive should be wiped into any exposed leather fibers such as in frayed areas, slices part way through or where there may be a series of digs in the leather that can be brushed back and laid back down. Do not leave Leather Adhesive on the surface to the original finish. Allow to air dry.
   Deep Leather Fill, Deep Leather Fill II and Leather Fill can then be used in thin layers to level out the damaged area allowing drying between layers. These are air dry products but a hair dryer can be used to speed up the drying time.
   Use Leather Soft Fill to fill in any pinholes or minor imperfections. Just a quick swipe with the pallette knife will do, much like using spot putty. Let air dry.
   For a smooth skin finish over the repair area, wipe Leather Cream Fill with a paper towel quickly and let dry. This product will provide a final base from which to texture and color.
3. Repairing punctures, holes and cuts through the leather:
   Subpatch if necessary using vinyl mesh adhered to a piece of two inch masking tape for thin , tightly stretched leather. Use Leather Adhesive to secure. Using a pallette knife spread Leather Repair Compound ( heat cure) into the damaged area. Using the UT-100SI with Mini-Iron adapter and Graining Paper to cure the compound by moving the iron back and forth evenly over the graining paper. Be careful not to get the graining paper to hot and cool the down the graining paper with your Chill Bar before removing the graining paper.
4. Graining Methods:
   For imprinting lines of grain: Spray a light adhesion coat of Leather Clone over the repair and allow to dry slightly. Then apply a heavy coat and allow to tack. Spray Clone Activator over the repair area and on the appropriate graining pad. Place the pad firmly onto the repair area, holding for about 30 seconds. Remove pad and blot dry the area with a paper towel and examine your grain. The grain will get deeper with heavier coats of Leather Clone. Repeat until satisfied.
   Leather Fill and Leather Cream Fill can be wiped on and dabbed to create some useful grains. Let dry before applying color.
   For light graining or to blend over a previous grain, spray a mist coat of Water Base Spray Grain or Water Base Spray Texure (VM-12) from about 12" away using a Preval Sprayer. Spraying at a close distance will allow a heavier texture. Sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper when dry.
5. Recolor using Superior's Water Base Dye System and instructions.

MATCH COLOR: Mix your color and add Water Base Flatner (5 to 10%) if needed to control the sheen. For high stress areas add Water BaseFlex Additive (5-10%). Add (3-5%) Water BaseSlip Agent to your final coat of color for that original feel. Strain before spraying. Use Leather Primer or Hi-Tac Primer  (oily surfaces) to help adhesion on high wear or stress areas.

SPRAYING COLOR: Rub in color on first coat, especially on cracked areas. Then spray light coats to finish the coloring. If your color tends to dry too fast, add water to color to slow down drying process. Allow to dry between coats. When coverage is satisfactory, check smoothness of leather. Sand lightly with Steel Wool to smoothen leather if needed. Spray final coat with Slip Agent in your color. Always clear coat reds and metallics, thin dye with clear coat or spray straight clear coat over the leather. This will help protect your color.

TRAINING VIDEO AVAILABLE

Superior Restoration Products has assembled this complete professional velour repair kit designed for the specific needs of the auto trimmer, mobile installer or person desiring to enter this field on a professional level. Velour repair is also a good add-on to any existing business.

1. Match as close as possible the color you will need.
2. Clean the area with Velour, Fabric & Carpet Spot Remover if needed. Prep area with Silicone Wash. This will get rid of any fabric protectants that might have been applied and guarantees good adhesion.
3. Scrape any carbon from the burn by using a razor blade.
4. If damage if completely through the material you must put in a sub-patch. Position the sub-patch between the foam and fabric with a pair of tweezers or palette knife. You may need to use some foam under the sub-patch to make the repair area flush. Secure the sub-patch material with Base Velour Adhesive. Let dry completely.
5. Apply Base Velour Adhesive inside the burn hole to embed your velour fibers. For best results make sure the repair area is as flat as possible. Use a razor rlade, toothbrush or detail brush to embed the fibers into the adhesive. Now seal the area with Base Velour Adhesive (thinned out) over the top and dry with Hair Dryer completely.
6. Spray a wet coat of Water Base Velour Adhesive and apply velour with an Atomizer or Electrostatic Gun to blend your repair. If using the Electrostatic Gun, the fibers will be drawn into the adhesive, standing on end, leaving a soft velvety feel to the repair. Dry completely with a Hair Dryer.
7. Spray a light coat of Fabric Shield over the top to protect, seal and leave a soft natural feel.

Using a hair drier to dry the adhesives will help add strength to your repair.